Dorly Marmillod Interview
Radio Beromuenster, Buenos Aires
1952 (?)

translated by Ephraim Schaefli

RADIO INTERVIEWER::
Dear Listeners [inaudible]... and on which there are no trains or ski lifts, to the joy of the best mountain climbers, who like to go away go to find loneliness and rest, to go against unknown dangers and even to visit scientifically unchartered territory. "The Tallest" will always have a special attraction for the alp climbers. What's overlooked is that there are already many Expeditions waiting in line to conquer the peak of Mount Everest. In other parts of the world, there aren't as high mountains and on the whole American double continent there is only one mountain that just reaches the 7000 meters above sea level mark. This is Aconcagua that stands in the High Andes on the border between Argentina and Chile. Aconcagua was already climbed for the first time in 1897 by the Swiss mountain guide Matthias Zurbriggen. Since then, more than 50 Expeditions have been successful. And today, this mountain has become a "Fashion Mountain", exactly because its the higher gate. We need to also mention that because of the technic involved, Aconcagua is actually a very easy mountain, at least on one side. Because of the climate, the climbing Route isn't too hard. Even in winter there's no snow on the mountain, so one can use the astonishing ski run to cross those unending boulder fields. At the heights of 6000 and 6500 meters the Argentinean military has set up two little huts that just have enough room for two to three people. They are called Eva Peron and Juan Peron. The starting point of the climb is at 4200 meters, just about as high as Mont Blanc and is called Plaza de Mulas. There are stables for mules and fire pits and a sleeping hut built by the military. The hut is 3 by 4 meters. The only furniture is a seat attached to the wall, so still a far cry from the comfort of our SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) huts. Instead Andi Wiess knows a different comfort in this area, he rides. At the last train station, Puenta del Inca, one can rent mules but they are very expensive, so many Expedtions try to involve the Argentinean military, who will then not only let them use the mules for free, but even provide the necessary drivers. It is completely possible to ride the mules up to 250 meters under the peak. Of course that is no more mountain climbing. 9 out of 10 people that go up to the highest height of 7000 meters this way cannot finish the last part of the climb, known as the Canaleta, because they run out of breath. Also, one should not put so much strain on the donkeys! Theoretically it is only allowed to ride up to Plaza de Mulas. In any case, today there exists up to 6750 meters of that huge mountain, a mulepath. It's obvious, that under these conditions where all that's really asked for to climb the highest mountain in America is money, time, and the weather forecast, that there is a big crowd of mountain climbers every summer. The best time is in hot January and February, this is the seasonal travel because of the opposite seasons. Already in the summer of 1951 to 52 the camp of Plaza de Mulas was constantly full. Exactly as in this last summer, where one Expedition after another climbed up. One priest even wanted to read a Mass on the peak, but he didn't make it and so all the radio equipment that was taken along on the trip to broadcast the Mass wasn't needed. All these people have only one concern, the newest measurements have shown that the mountain doesn't actually reach the 7000 meter mark, instead of 7021 meters, one should probably say 6953meters. Dear listeners, I am telling you about this "Fashion Mountain" Aconcagua, on which this summer expeditions from Japan and Brazil, among others, climbed up. Now I want to talk about a Swiss achievement once again, you like to hear that at your house, true? If you are talking about mountains, than often you also talk about Swiss, the world has sort of gotten used to this. I have already said that Aconcagua was climbed the first time by the Swiss Zurbriggen. Well, again it was a Swiss who for the first time climbed over the South Ridge, namely over a new route. Already for years, Dr. Frederic Marmillod, in the magazine for "Swiss Alpine Explorers" called "The at this time best Swiss Alpinist", had searched for a new route to the top of Aconcagua. Dr. Marmillod, as a "world swiss" who lives in Buenos Aires, should be interviewed by Radio Sotan. So instead we have at the microphone his wife. Mrs. Marmillod is thank God for Beromuenster, from Appenzell, born as Eisenhut. Now our listeners shouldn't think that we cheat you for the real hero of this story. No, No, on every one of her husband's mountain tours all over the South American Cordillera Mrs. Marmillod was the perfect friend and was also this time along. And besides that she is also a just as perfect mother of four daughters, all born in different Latin American Republics.

Tell us, Mrs. Marmillod, how many times have you already climbed Aconcagua?

DORLY MARMILLOD:
With this last climb this year the total is three. The first time in 1948 with our countrymen Otto Pfenniger and Konrad Brunner, the second time with Michel Rudin from Silo.

INTERVIEWER:
How is it with those ladies on Aconcagua? Surely there aren't too many who dare to go so high.

MARMILLOD:
The First time, meaning 1948, I was the third lady that made it to the top. My two predecessors Adrian Ban, with two climbs, and Maria Canale both died on the mountain. In 1952 Mrs. Maendi Knoller, the fourth lady and first female Argentinean, made the climb to the top. With my two climbs, a total of four ladies have been up six times to 7000 Meters.

:INTERVIEWER:
So, this time you went up by a new route, did you go alone or with your husband?

MARMILLOD:
No, this concerns and Argentinean Swiss Expedition, because we were escorted by two young Argentineans. One, the Argentinean Mountain Group Lieutenant Francisco Ibanez, is 25 years old and has already been to the top six times, having a record in that respect; the other one's name is Fernando Grajales who had also been to the top once before. Through Lieutenant Ibanez we were able to get military donkeys and this way were able to transport the material over the first boulder field all the way to the base of the cliff, about 5400 meters up. To that place, where we set up our first tent camp with two tents, my husband went in 1952 with two French alp climbers to reconnoitre the way. Also till that spot we took along a fifth man, Horche Guacordo, but he went back with the donkeys and the tents. We then took our sleeping bags and climbed on alone.

INTERVIEWER:
How many days did your Expedition take?

MARMILLOD:
All in all about seven. But maybe you could do it in five or even four days. We spent two days in tent camps and on the second day my husband and Lieutenant Ibanez searched for the way to the Couloir, which my husband found on pictures and with binoculars from the other side of the valley.

INTERVIEWER:
So you had to do reconnaissance on other peaks to study the new Route?

MARMILLOD:
Oh yes, several mountains were climbed, also for training. For example, we climbed a nameless peak about 5500 meters in height, an extension of the Southern Ridge of Acongadua, and named it Mirador. But to come back to our new route, on the third day with sack and pack, each weighing about 15 Kilos, we climbed into the couloir. After a bivouac on the fourth day we climbed higher, got snowed in during the night and spent the fifth day in camp at about 6400 meters. The weather got nice again, except of course that it's cold and windy between six and seven thousand meters. On the sixth day we crossed the Southern Ridge, and in the afternoon at five we were standing on the south peak. The south peak is not as high as the north, therefore less travelled. From there my husband took the ice axe of the first climbers, the Germans Kopp and Herold, who climbed up from the Canaleta. It was still stuck well preserved in the stone wall, where it had been since 1947. He then left his own ice axe there. On the same sixth day, we climbed back down to the log cabin Juan Peron, over the normal route, and on the sixth day we came back to Plaza de Mulas.

INTERVIEWER:
And you say that the friendship with those two Argentineans was excellent?

MARMILLOD:
Yes, Lieutenant Ibanez is the big hope of the Argentinean Mountain climbers, with him leading they are even planning their own Himalayan Expedition. Francisco Ibanez lately also married, we also want to say that quickly, because his wife is the daughter of a Swiss Concierge with the good Bernese name of Imobersteg. So Lieutenant Ibanez is not only tied to Switzerland through mountain climbing but also through much stronger ties.

INTERVIEWER:
And to end Mrs. Marmillod, one last question, how many firsts does your husband have on his account?

MARMILLOD: Oh I don't know, one doesn't have an account for such things.